Summer in Paris: Where to escape the crowds?

Over Easter break, a family we know visited Paris, and gave us some tips.

At the Louvre, the family waited over an hour in line (in the rain) to get to the checkpoint for reserved tickets. Tip: If tickets are not the right time or date, you won’t be admitted to the museum.

At the Eiffel Tower, even with reserved tickets, there’s a line to get in, a line for the elevators to the second floor, then a line for elevators to the top. Then wait in line for the elevator to go back down. Tip: From the second floor, walk back down, kids can see the structure of the Eiffel Tower up close.

The view from the Eiffel Tower is spectacular, kids love it, and once you get into the Louvre there’s lots to see. But during your stay in Paris, day after day waiting in long lines would not be fun, especially with younger kids.

This started us thinking, in Paris where are places to escape crowds in summer?

Our suggestions – the museum with unicorn tapestries, zoo and carousel in Jardin des Plantes, Army Museum collection of armor and Napoleon memorabilia, and Chateau de Vincennes, medieval royal residence in the middle of Paris. All these will have fewer crowds and space to explore and run around.

Musee de Cluny (Cluny Museum) – Musee national du Moyen Age

In the Middle Ages, Paris was hopping – it was the residence of the kings of France and an important commercial and religious center.

Cluny Museum is housed in the mansion of the abbot of Cluny, built on the site of ancient Roman baths.

In the museum collection are medieval crowns and jewelry, stained glass from Sainte-Chapelle, solid silver and gold crosses, statues of Mary and the Jesus, sculptures from exterior of Notre Dame.

The museum is most famous for six tapestries, named “The Lady and the Unicorn.”

The tapestries are made of wool and silk, woven around 1500 in Northern Europe. In each of the tapestries is a scene in a garden with a young Lady, a lion and a white unicorn.

The theme of five tapestries is senses of touch, smell, taste, hearing and sight. The sixth tapestry illustrates emotions “from the heart.”

Touch – The Lady curls her hand around the unicorn’s horn. In the garden are different exotic pets with jeweled collars.

Taste – The Lady puts her hand in bowl of sweet treats, in her other hand she holds a pet parrot.

Smell – The Lady makes a wreath of flowers. A pet monkey delicately holds a flower, basket of flowers is below.

Hearing – The Lady plays a portable organ. Decorating the organ is a small unicorn on the front end.

Sight – The unicorn looks into a mirror, held by the Lady.

A Mon Seul Desir – Lady puts row of jewels into the chest held by the serving woman. A fluffy little dog sits on a pillow beneath.

The six tapestries are displayed in a circular room, with comfy seating in the middle.

Kids can see the tapestries up close, so spend time looking at all the details – gorgeous fabrics and jewels of Lady’s gowns, all the many animals, different expressions on lion and unicorn in each scene.

Banners and shields with white crescents on a blue background are coat of arms of French family that commissioned the tapestries.

In the tapestries are variety of different animals – lambs, monkeys, rabbits, dogs, fox, goat, birds, cheetah, leopard, lion cubs.

Rabbits are in every tapestry, see how many you can count (there are 34). Some of dogs are hunting dogs, two dogs, sitting on a pillow and Lady’s gown, are pets.

Outside the museum, on corner of Blvd. Saint-Michel and Saint-Germain is a garden area, and small children’s play area.

Museum is open daily, closed on Monday. Hours are 9:30am – 6pm.

The most popular gallery in the museum is Lady and the Unicorn, so arrive early on weekends. Thursday and Friday school groups visit, so come midday or later in afternoon, after 3:30pm.

Museum entrance on 28 rue Du Sommerard, 75005 Paris

Jardin des Plantes

The Jardin des Plantes is more than just gardens. Founded in 1635, by the 18th century it was a center of scientific study of natural history.

Today, there’s a zoo (Menagerie), carousel with extinct and endangered animals, botanical gardens, mazes, and natural history museums.

On the charming carousel (Manege), kids can ride around on extinct animals such as elephant bird (looks like an ostrich), Tasmanian wolf, glyptodon (armadillo), Sivatherium (giraffe), Triceratops, dodo bird, Atlas lion, elephant, gorilla, panda.

The Menagerie zoo is small sized with animals kids may not have seen before. Look for golden lion tamarins, Seychelles giant tortoise, tree kangaroo, Prezwalski’s horse (Mongolian wild horse), orangutans, leopards, axolotl, vicuna, gila monster, parrots, oryx.

The zoo and carousel are perfect for younger kids. Out front of the zoo are picnic tables and hippo sculptures to climb on.

For older kids, stop into the Museum of Natural History (Muséum national d’Histoire naturelle), four floors of animal dioramas in the Grand Gallery of Evolution, and Gallery of Mineralogy and Geology.

Gardens, zoo and carousel are open daily, museums open every day, closed on Tuesday.

Jardin des Plantes is located at 57 Rue Cuviers 75005 Paris.

Musee de l’Armee – Army Museum

Step into France military history from Middle Ages to 20th century – royal armor, uniforms, swords, lances, pikes, cannons, Napoleon’s hat, sword and horse.

On ground level is a collection of ancient armor from 13th – 17th centuries, including kid’s armor, plus cannons, swords, daggers.

On the second floor, galleries focus on Napoleon Bonaparte, supreme commander of the Grand Army (Grande Armee), and his military campaigns.

Look for Napoleon’s swords, including the sword he carried at the battle of Austerlitz, and a curvy Egyptian Saber of the Pyramids. Napoleon created his own coat of arms with the eagle, crown, and bees – his emblems were carried by regiments in battle, such as the blue satchel in photo above.

More details about Napoleon exhibits at this museum, read our blog post: Napoleon Bonaparte in Paris.

Museum is open every day, 10am – 6pm.

129 Rue de Grenelle 75007 Paris

Chateau de Vincennes

A spectacular medieval castle, Chateau de Vincennes is just a short Metro ride from the center of Paris.

It’s the tallest keep (donjon) in Europe and was a fortified royal residence for French kings, starting in the 14th century. When you visit Chateau de Vincennes, kids will see how the French kings and their families lived in the Middle Ages.

Throughout the castle, look for symbol of the French monarchy, royal coat of arms is three fleur de lis (lily). It appears gold on a blue background in stained glass, also in shields over portcullis gateway and doorway in the chapel, angels holding a shield with fleur de lis and crown.

Sainte-Chapelle – Holy Chapel
This is the private chapel for the royal family, founded by Charles V in 1379. The Gothic style chapel has a rose window and tall stained glass windows. Climb up the balcony under the rose window for a view of the chapel below

Tip: Visit the chapel before going over to the keep, chapel is closed noon to 2pm.

Castle keep
The keep is surrounded by defensive walls and four watchtowers in each corner, and a deep moat (today lined with grass).

Inside the keep on the first floor is the Council Room, and chapel.

The second floor has king’s private apartments, bedroom with large fireplace, wardrobe with chests for king’s clothes, garderobe (latrine) and treasury where gold and silver were stored.

More info about Chateau de Vincennes on Travel for Kids website.

Tip: Take Metro Line 1, Chateau de Vincennes stop. When you come out of the subway, castle is right there.

Kids under 18 are free, no strollers allowed.

Chateau is open daily, 10am – 6pm in spring and summer, 10am to 5pm in fall and winter.

Parc Floral de Paris – Bois de Vincennes

Right across from Chateau de Vincennes is Parc Floral, part of the Bois de Vincennes.

After exploring the castle, this a great place to relax with lots of grass to run around, playgrounds, play 18 holes of mini-golf with landmarks of Pars, rent a surrey and pedal around, have a picnic.